27. Restaurant Review: The Apollo

In the same way that Sydney hasn't seen too many sunny days lately, the Republic of Greece has also been a far cry from the 5th and 4th centuries when the Athenians prided over having the most advanced economy in the world. Although by no stretch could Sydney compare itself to the struggle currently being faced by the Greek, if reports of diners booking for 6 and eating for 3 are anything to go by, our eating habits are clearly changing and unless your at the pointy end of town $175 set menus no longer wash.

A dining space like this belongs at the pointy end of town. Courtesy of Architect George Livissianis if not for the throng pulsing their way along Macleay Street to the double doors that mark the entrance of The Apollo, you mightn't even notice the nondescript 1930's building which was previously a stuffy, curtain drawn space. With the bladder seemingly ripped out, what remains is an interior of crumbly peeling paint which, however bare-bones makes for the most elegant interpretation of hole in the wall meets avant-garde.

Enter and be warmed by the light through each arched window but arrive early. However kindly Chris McNally may be to greet you from all observations The Apollo is in full swing by 7pm, it's balmy location beneath a canopy of plane trees a magnet for locals, grown ups and the chic set. Once in however, it's a seat at a smooth whitewashed table top or the U-shaped bar and what better way to take in the view than here, leaning against the marble and listening to the smooth jazzy tones of the late Ms Winehouse.

In a similarish way the food takes the same slant as the decor. Traditional rustic fare such as a Taramasalata Mullet Roe Dip ($12) comes served in a glass jar but with the most delicate spoon made of mother of pearl. Mopped up with a generous serving of warm pita bread, punchy and flavoursome as each bubble of salmon caviar bursts, a Saganaki of Cheese Honey and Oregano ($17) provides a delicious salty contrast to this otherwise velvety, rich dish which like the dip is served simply but with a pretty spray of purple oregano.

Order the Lamb Rib and Loin ($34), grilled pieces of succulent lamb, marinated, sliced thickly and served up with a pot of yogurt but if your stomachs on the small side be prepared to share. The Apollo's menu is practically designed around the concept and by fine dining standards this is a colossal dish, one worthy of Alexander and his Thessalian army who in Greek times and still remains one of the most successful commanders in all time history.

Did I say fine dining? Perhaps the definition needs to be reviewed. With waitstaff however fresh but clearly eager, the genius of Sam Christie of Longrain fame and Jonathan Barthelmess at the pans, The Apollo and it's delectable, price competitive menu and superlative taverna style interior shines a beacon for the Greek not doing so well back and home and is an example if any how in-spite of the industry with it's volatility, difficulty, and all round pain in the ass customers, a strong business acumen goes a long, long way.

Written by A L F I E A N D E L L E for Daily Gloss

http://www.theapollo.com.au

The Apollo

44 Macleay Street, Potts Point

T: (02) 8354 0888

Images courtesy of Scott Needham

26. Restaurant Review: Bay Tinh

Lord knows getting around Sydney is tough enough but with the advent of cab to curb heels, show me a woman that say's 'I'd love to walk to dinner in my new Louboutin's' and I'll show you a liar, a drunk or a gold digger and lord knows there's plenty of those in Sydney.

The 'arkward shoe' has alot to answer for and for me this means hitting up some of Sydney's finest diners because they happen to be within walking distance of my Eastern Suburbs bubble. However as pleasurable as flashy warehouse conversions may be, it only takes a weekend of this to realise I'm living a champagne lifestyle on a very beer-like budget and having to wait two hours for a table .. at the bar .. for a kebab.

There's an alternate. An adventure. And a surprise at the end. Located over the bridge, Bay Tinh in Sydney's Crow's Nest is surprisingly a 20 minute drive to get to in peak hour traffic from Elizabeth Bay and presumably a nifty 15 minute scoot in non-peak hour traffic.

Bookings are accepted and BYO wine, as the french would say 'Tres Bon'. Did you know Vietnam was a French colony until 1954? Neither did I but as my date and I settle into our table and a lovely bottle of The Pawn 11' Pinos Gris ($26), a survey of the menu proves more than your typical Vietnamese type fare but one weighing heavily on the influences of French Imperialism.

Crispy Pancake gone wrong can be a sordid affair but our Crispy Pancake ($12.90) is both light, lace thin and full of crunch and munch. Stuffed Dried Mushrooms ($12) filled with prawn paste sit plump on a bed of cabbage accompanied by a delectable pool of hot oyster sauce.

The labour intensity of a Galantine of Chicken ($8.50) far outweighs this princely price-point. The bird; de-boned and stuffed with a mixture of pork and spice is so delicious it's hard to say where the succulent juices end and my drool starts. It's a good thing I'm able to pull myself together before the piece de resistance. Six Little Rice Cakes ($10.50) like wafer crisp cups each filled with a creamy prawn and coconut milk centre.

I didn't lie about the surprise as in our case we found it at the end. Past the kitchen Bay Tinh's main dining space opens out onto a plush cushion covered boudoir. With it's own tapas style menu and sommelier wine recommendations for each item listed, the mind boggles at what other experiences may be had, at this place that serves heaven on a plate and leaves room to buy more 'arkward shoes'.

Written by A L F I E A N D E L L E for Daily Gloss

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17. Restaurant Review: Spice Temple

Past the grand entrance to Rockpool Bar and Grill and down the slope, you’ll feel like Alice entering the Looking Glass where an illuminated door appears. Red curtains billowing, a simple sign say’s push and into the unknown you enter; down a spiral staircase the words “Watch Your Head” appear and I have to question if I’m about to loose mine.

Gladly there’s no dragon to slay at the bottom of those stairs, just a lightbox bar with bentwood chairs and a few slowly turning ceiling fans. Are they decorative or functional? My guess from Neil Perry’s $35 million dollar investment is that they are purpose built, as is every nook from the joss sticks with their lightly fragranced scent to the upbeat sound of the bamboo flute.

And then something takes me by surprise. As we’ve been toying over the horoscope themed cocktail menu, the time since our booking was made has since elapsed. By 5 minutes, 10? It couldn’t be much more than that but as a consequence of this conceived lapse in service, the maître d’ informs us both our desserts for this evening will be complimentary.

In the red room the fun continues. The steamed eggplant with three flavours is served with equal portions of eggplant, pork and coriander holding it’s own before being folded at the table. Theatrics ensue with the three shot chicken as this dish is served over a burner to which lager, soy, chilli are added. The aromatics of the dish with its liquid and steam envelop the table.

A peanut & caramelised chocolate parfait is the jewel in the crown of this affair. The crisp caramelised shell shatters into splinters that are quickly enveloped by the creamy pool of chocolate moose that lies below. For city dwellers seeking escapism from the falling Aussie dollar, this is an alternate world. Worth every dragon you’ll have to slay to eat here. The staff are so helpful I’ve no doubt they’d brandish their waiter’s friends like pitchforks and help a damsel in distress if need be.

Spice Temple Sydney
10 Bligh Street, Sydney 2000
T: (02) 9078 1888

Written by A L F I E A N D E L L E for Daily Gloss

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15. Restaurant Review: Mrs Sippy

It’s late, dark and I’m wearing heels worth falling in as my neighbour Y and I go in search of Mrs Sippy. In The Beach Leonardo DiCaprio goes in search on an island on the basis of a conversation and a dodgy map and on the basis of a single tweet and a rumor – Y’s friend had an amazing night at a wine bar in Double Bay – “But they’re aren’t any amazing wine bars!” I protest, it’s 11pm and we’re stumbling around Double Bay with absolutely no idea where we’re going. At least Leo had a map.

Minutes later we’re at the bar. Toasting our discovery like we’ve just been re-born and I have to say I’m impressed at the staff as in spite of our unbridled enthusiasm they don’t skip a beat. And why should they? The crowd, a mish mash of ages, personalities and incomes is pumping and it’s refreshing to experience the variety that see’s strangers bump shoulders like old friends and the feel of being at a private party.

Emails say a lot about people and menus do the same. In London you’ve bar menus boasting double frozen and custom chipped ice but there’s nothing pretentious about this place. For the easily pleased Mrs Sippy offers Fish and Chips ($26) and Steak Frites fare ($28) and for the more adventurous at heart, a Octopus, Chorizo and Chickpea salad ($20) and a Pumpkin, Gorgonzola, Artichoke and Pinenut Pizza ($18).

As we settle down to Espresso Martinis ($16), the perfect combinations of vodka and cream de cacao ensuring these aren’t too sweet. I admire the decor, which I can only describe as hole in wall meets the Hampton’s. Exposed brick walls and factory style lighting contrast nicely with the whitewashed wooden floorboards, sparkling kitchen and open-air style of courtyard scattered with bright green potted plants.

As we leave I spot a good looking chap standing out the front looking in, hands in pockets and looking quite pleased and if it’s the publican Ben May then so he should be. Since my dog has been forced into exile I’ve been counting down the days until my lease ends however as of tonight I want to extend it until the end of summer. As far as bars go this is my beach and I’d rather get lost in here than say goodbye to paradise.

Mrs Sippy
37 Bay Street, Double Bay 2011
T: (02) 9362 3321

Written by A L F I E A N D E L L E for Daily Gloss

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13. Restaurant Review: Concrete Blonde

I could make a crack about Concrete Blonde. A reference to uplifts, subtlety and a rack for all to see. But I won’t because in spite of the name and the overtly sexual references in the hall, it would seem we have a valid contestant in town and one I expect will fiercely rival her roomies Barrio Chino and Gastro Park.

True to her name, the space to the left of Hugo’s has had some work done. Courtesy of Dreamtime Australia Design, the designers behind Victor Churchill Butcher and Steel Bar and Grill in town; the concrete pillars holding the upstairs apartments are hardly noticeable overwhelmed by a fusion of wood, fire, glass and steel. In an industrial yet elegant space, I feel immediately warmed by the lighting and staff. “Am I too cold being seated by the door?” Who are they kidding? Things are just warming up.

From the “Hot Compositions” on the menu I order the “gnocchetti’ of potato ($19). The gnocchi, loose parcels of fresh pasta – at odds with its Italian roots, is served with edamame, sweet corn and shemiji mushroom – moist, silky and aromatic with an exuberant dressing of tarragon.

My main, the lamb loin by Murraylands farm ($39) is a bright punchy pink. The meat goes well with the varying flavours of the slightly bitter dill, walnuts and sweet beetroot and although never a fan of brussel sprouts, their presence ties in well with the architecturally interesting morsels fanned about my plate.

Dessert doesn’t disappoint. Lovers of cheese will be thrilled at the international selection, none of which I remember, as at this point I’m welcoming wine bottle number two, a beautiful Hunters Pinot Noir ($69) I’m feeling slightly intoxicated be it the wine, the location or the company none of these things matter. The claws are out and the only question that now remains is who you choose? The Mexican, European or the blonde. I know who has my vote.

Concrete Blonde
33 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross 2011
T: (02) 9380 8307

Written by A L F I E A N D E L L E for Daily Gloss

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11. Restaurant Review: Bar Indigo

Once the epicentre of high fashion; Double Bay has been relatively quiet of late. Perhaps this could explain why first-time visitors to this cafe are always in for a little shock. Elsewhere you’ll find relatively empty streets but round the bend and it would seem as though every local, if not already seated, is leaning against their luxury cars as they patiently wait for a table.

Audi’s line the way to Bar Indigo in Double Bay; a cafe so beautifully framed by box hedges, chocolate colored wicker chairs and the stunning surrounds of Transvaal Avenue, the feeling of being there is almost akin to a film where Etta James is playing At Last in the background and beautifully clad people are served by smartly dressed staff.

By the menu alone, any reference to a cafe is immediately discarded. This sophisticated dining. A beef goulash soup arrives piping hot. The perfect blend of spice, cream and thinly sliced pickles to garnish. The meat is melt in your mouth quality and the flavours interesting enough to warrant a second helping if not for being tempted by the rest of the menu.

Cafe’s remind me of albums sometimes. A few star tracks and the rest are average or mediocre but with Bar Indigo every element from the food to the location, the service, price and atmosphere are exceptional. It’s no wonder people are smiling as they queue.

Written by A L F I E A N D E L L E for Daily Gloss

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