13. Restaurant Review: Concrete Blonde

I could make a crack about Concrete Blonde. A reference to uplifts, subtlety and a rack for all to see. But I won’t because in spite of the name and the overtly sexual references in the hall, it would seem we have a valid contestant in town and one I expect will fiercely rival her roomies Barrio Chino and Gastro Park.

True to her name, the space to the left of Hugo’s has had some work done. Courtesy of Dreamtime Australia Design, the designers behind Victor Churchill Butcher and Steel Bar and Grill in town; the concrete pillars holding the upstairs apartments are hardly noticeable overwhelmed by a fusion of wood, fire, glass and steel. In an industrial yet elegant space, I feel immediately warmed by the lighting and staff. “Am I too cold being seated by the door?” Who are they kidding? Things are just warming up.

From the “Hot Compositions” on the menu I order the “gnocchetti’ of potato ($19). The gnocchi, loose parcels of fresh pasta – at odds with its Italian roots, is served with edamame, sweet corn and shemiji mushroom – moist, silky and aromatic with an exuberant dressing of tarragon.

My main, the lamb loin by Murraylands farm ($39) is a bright punchy pink. The meat goes well with the varying flavours of the slightly bitter dill, walnuts and sweet beetroot and although never a fan of brussel sprouts, their presence ties in well with the architecturally interesting morsels fanned about my plate.

Dessert doesn’t disappoint. Lovers of cheese will be thrilled at the international selection, none of which I remember, as at this point I’m welcoming wine bottle number two, a beautiful Hunters Pinot Noir ($69) I’m feeling slightly intoxicated be it the wine, the location or the company none of these things matter. The claws are out and the only question that now remains is who you choose? The Mexican, European or the blonde. I know who has my vote.

Concrete Blonde
33 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross 2011
T: (02) 9380 8307

Written by A L F I E A N D E L L E for Daily Gloss

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